The Beauty of Patchwork

Of all the clothes I own, the colorful patchwork jacket is the most unique. It is handmade, lightweight and in no way subtle. It stands out among my wardrobe with its colors and bold geometric patterns. There are red, yellow and orange bands on a green background. This is a jacket for special occasions. When worn, it attracts compliments, questions and usually a stare or two. Most folks who did not grow up in South Florida are not familiar with patchwork, but it is an art form unique to Florida and very much part of our state’s history.

My jacket was created by Lois Doctor, who is a modest but highly talented seamstress. Lois is Seminole and has lived in the Everglades all of her life. She grew up sewing patchwork, the traditional clothing style of both Seminole and Miccosukee people. Patchwork has a rich history and remains an important part of Native American culture here in Florida. It is unique to our state and, in my opinion, a treasure.
Patchwork, however, is a relatively recent artform. We know from historic accounts, sketches and photographs that Native Americans in Florida during the 1700s and 1800s did not make it. Garments consisted of a combination of traditional leather shirts and leggings, and clothes made from cotton and wool material obtained through trade. During this time, large shirts, jackets and dresses were made from broad bands of cloth that were decorated with strips of colored material and occasionally applied geometric patterns (typically diamond shapes).

This all changed when the hand-cranked sewing machine was introduced to native communities in South Florida during the very early 1900s. The new technology coincided with a time when many families were working in tourist camps to earn income. Native people were encouraged to sew, carve, cook and wrangle alligators as part of the attraction. Crafts such as dolls, small carvings and clothing were made and offered for sale. Visitors from all over the country came to Florida each winter to buy souvenirs and meet a “real Indian.”
Sometime around 1915, patchwork clothes begin to appear in photographs. In these images, the cl

othing shows a bold new style consisting of many small pieces of cloth that form geometric patterns. This style of sewing quickly caught on and by the 1920s it was the predominant wardrobe among Seminole and Miccosukee people in the Everglades. By the 1930s it had spread to the related communities located to the north around Lake Okeechobee and was a central part of the culture.
With each passing decade, an evolution in the design of the patterns can be seen in old photographs. The components of the patchwork patterns generally get smaller and more complex with time. Early styles show bold blocky patterns while later, more “modern,” designs tend to be smaller. Unsurprisingly, the images also show how clothing styles changed through time, much like any fashion.

In broad terms, patchwork refers to both the style of clothing and the individual bands of patterns that are then combined with cloth to make the garment. A “band” of patchwork is made by sewing many small pieces of colorful cloth together to form a pattern that repeats itself across the length of the work. These patterns sometimes have names that somewhat resemble the design such as fire, telephone pole, man on a horse and zig zag.
The jacket Lois Doctor made for me is in the old style that would have been made for a family member, rather than for sale to a tourist. The patterns she used come from the 1940s. Strips of colored cloth are sewn onto the jacket to form bands that complement the geometric patterns. There is no collar or zipper. Buttons are used to close the front. Lois explained to me that collars and zippers were for tourist jackets because that is what they wanted. Ricrack was also used by some seamstresses on sales garments instead of cloth strips to save sewing time.
Although worn infrequently, the jacket is one of my prized possessions. It is both a connection to a simpler time and a wonderful example of a unique Florida artform. To see examples of historic Seminole patchwork, visit the Silver River Museum and Environmental Education Center on any Saturday or Sunday from 10am to 4pm. To learn more about Native American arts in Florida, the book Art of the Florida Seminole and Miccosukee Indians by Dorothy Downs (University Press of Florida 1995) is an excellent resource.

Scott Mitchell is a field archaeologist, scientific illustrator and director of the Silver River Museum & Environmental Education Center at 1445 NE 58th Avenue, inside the Silver River State Park. To learn more, go to silverrivermuseum.com